I love Egypt. It may even be my favourite country but there is no doubt it is one of the most stressful to travel around. From the moment a tourist steps outside their hotel door they become a target of all manner of touts and claims that ‘my [insert item here] is the best [insert item here]’ even if you had never cared for a [insert item here] before or even now.
Our initial idea was to journey from Aswan to Luxor by felucca, the traditional wooden sailing boat that has plied its way up and down the Nile for centuries, but so sick of being propositioned by captains every five steps along the Nile-side corniche, we instead looked at the high sides of the cruise ships moored in town and thought: “none of these buggers are going to get near us on that: I want one of them.”
If you have the time and the inclination the cheapest way to arrange a cruise is to do it yourself. We walked on and off each ship moored in Aswan asking the captain how much it will cost, for how long and how many stops. Though it was some time ago now (2006), for guidance on price we paid US$85 for two nights on board, including all meals, stopping at Edfu on the way to Luxor.
Image courtesy David Berkowitz